Naples is Neat!
The Topline
The one thing you won’t find much in Naples — Americans. Unless on a cruise tour, they stay away in droves — deterred by all the scare stories.
What are they missing? One of the most exciting cities and best value destinations in Italy — well priced hotels, local, authentic cuisine, endless cafes, food stands and restaurants.
You’ll find a city that’s really old, and looks it, layers built on layers. A hulking volcano that could wipe the place out at any time (As Pompeii and Herculaneum dramatically attest.) Rabbit warrens of streets in the old center and, surprisingly, a steep central hill district hovering above the frenetic energy below and reached by several funicular railway lines.
Getting There
The easiest way from Rome is via train — the Leonardo Express (leaves every 30 minutes or so from inside the arrivals terminal and takes 35 minutes) from the airport to Roma Termini. Then don’t mess around with local trains, take the FRECCIAROSSA express — about 80 minutes to Napoli Centrale.
Are the stations safe? In a word, yes! They’re bustling, well lit and full of stores and cafes. Sure, like any major hub, you probably don’t want to take out your wallet and start counting €50.00 bills. but keep your wits about you, have a sense of your personal space and you’ll be fine.
At Napoli Centrale — its very easy to transfer to subway lines 1 and 2. Strangely though, they are each run by different companies so tickets don’t transfer and officious operatives will check to make sure you’re not trying to use a 1 line ticket on the 2.
They’re accessible via an underground plaza from inside the station surrounded by shops and food options.
VaVenturing tips for getting to Naples
Book directly on the Italian train system’s Trenitalia English site and avoid the US based train consolidator sites. At Trenitalia, you’ll be able to choose from a much wider range of prices/cancellation options as well as an easy widget for choosing your seat for an extra €2.00.
For usually around €7.00 Euros more on the Leonardo and around €30.00 additional on the FRECCIAROSSA— you can go first class on both trains. Its worth the minimal splurge. You’ll avoid the backpackers and the crush and enjoy reserved seating in dedicated cars that are unlikely to be full.
Finally — be aware that Italian trains often don’t run on time, so leave yourself plenty of flexibility between transfers. And if you have extra time don’t hold yourself back - have a great espresso and a small pasticceria You won’t regret it. Enjoy the people watching. You are on vacation
Accommodation
For us, Naples is one of those cities where the VaVenturer appreciates a freshly made bed, a lovely Italian breakfast and someone else worrying why the hot water works only most days. In other words, well worth looking at hotel style accommodation rather then an Airbnb. Especially since street food is so cheap and abundant (and the caffe so sublime) — it rarely makes sense to even think about cooking.
One of the more innovative options right now in Naples - 4 — 6 bedroom mini hotels, often inside commercial or apartment buildings with basic services but well appointed rooms and bathrooms.
After some research, we stayed at Residenzia Barbonica - right off the main drag — Via Toledo — and above one of the most spectacular subway stations you’ll likely experience.
Its essentially 4 lovely, airy bedrooms, 2 with balconies, with high end linens, sparkling bathrooms featuring supposedly serenity inducing “chromotherapy” lighting, a breakfast lounge and a hallway all seemingly built within an existing business space. The building itself appears to be in the Italian fascist nouveau style — and consist mostly of offices - but there’s a very friendly doorman during work hours, and key access for after hours.
Breakfast at Residenzia Barbonica
Toledo Station
Eating
A no fuss, no frills trattoria serving local customers — abundant pasta and seafood, a great local cheese platter and a carafe of local Vesuvian grown wine.
Fabulous, fabulous fish — straight from the trawlers a 100 ft away.
Beautifully cooked Neapolitan food — whole fish, anchovies, various pastas — and be sure to ask for the antipasti de la casa.
An Unplanned Activity
One of the things you need to Unplan for in Italy — random shutdowns and delays of many city functions for no apparent reason. For the VaVenturer — its always an opportunity!
Long story short, the 1 line closed, took the 2 to what seemed like a vaguely adjacent neighborhood to where we were going.
Result — a fabulous unexpected walk through a section of the city no tourist would find and we strongly recommend.
We ended up exiting at Montesanto Station and walked downhill to Via Toledo, along Via Pignassecca — past the Funicular station, cheese and salumi stores, the fish and fruit market - toped off with smoky, chewy and crunchy margherita street pizza.
Don't Leave Without…
An Espresso at Grambrinus. Yes, it really is that good. Possibly the most sublime hit of caffeine you will ever experience. Thick, chewy, deep but not bitter — and brewed on the Lambrighini of beverage making engineering— the San Marco Leva — and all for €1.20. It can be a bit touristy (so go late evening or early morning) but don’t leave Naples without imbibing. And if you have a sweet tooth - ask them for a strapazzato - the espresso with infused cream and cacao sprinkled inside and around the rim. You won’t regret it. My husband had his espresso every day; I had my chocolate espresso. Who knew you could fall head over heels for a shot of espresso.
